“The Next Black”Presentation Documentation- Xiaoyan Kong

Teammates: Tiger and Gabriel

Topic: The Next Black

Link to the video

Watching this documentary is really an eye-opening experience for me. In the film, the designers and innovators from different companies and brands around the world gathering together discussing the future of clothing. Explores how clothes could be designed, produced and taken care of. It is a new exploration of how we should define the concept of clothing.

The chapters I am responsible for mainly talk about two things: DryDye Technology and fixing things by yourself. Every year, the process of water dyeing textiles disposes the equivalent of half a Mediterranean Sea into our rivers and streams. The 200,000 tons of toxic chemicals that escape wastewater treatment and end up pollute the water environment while huge comes solely from adding color to textiles. Drydye technology helps dye the textile without using any water which is fantastic. It saves a ton of water while producing colorful textiles.

When we talk about sustainability, many people place the blame on unethical brands and factories. However, it is also our responsibility to buy less and care more about our environment. When things break, we should try to fix them instead of throwing them. Make the most use of it will also get you more connected with your belongings.

Watching this video makes me realized there are so many so many ways to make life/fashion sustainable. And people are doing it. If we cannot be the creator of some kinda new tech or ways to keep things sustainable, at least we should learn this idea and learn from people who are making it possible now. The world needs each of us to take reaction to protect the planet.

Work in Progress – Xiaoyan Kong

Idea evolution: My initial idea for the final project was to research if fashion exchange works for fashion industry. My goal was to think about a complete online clothing exchange system that helps people exchange their clothes. After researching this idea further, I realized a lot of similar services already exists and so I decided to change my focus to a more hands-on project, something I have wanted to do from the beginning.

My first thought was to make wearable textile by re-using plastic and other materials that I and friends would discard in our daily life. Upon researching this idea further, I came to another realization. What I wanted to do is called “trash fashion” and is not “sustainable fashion.”

To get more inspiration, I went to the Intertextile Exhibition last Thursday and re-watched The Next Black. This time, what caught my attention was the idea of reusing and redesigning clothes. One way to make clothes sustainable is to produce it in a way that makes it easy to reuse parts of it for new designs. I won’t engage in my own production (yet, perhaps) but can still demonstrate the principle of repurposing clothes.  

A lot of time, we see our clothes as having one specific purpose, but we ignore their most basic attribute – they are made up of fabrics. Rather than just thinking of what we can do with our old clothes or who else could wear them, we should see not the whole and assign a purpose to it but see it as a collection of fabric and we should ask ‘What can we do with these fabrics?’

Problem identified:

When talking about sustainability, people like to put blame on unethical brands and factories, but we seldom change much about ourselves or do much. For instance, when we are dealing with our old clothes, we usually choose to throw them away or sell them. However, clothes is made of fabrics that can be reused and recycled in many ways to make them sustainable.

Research update:

When I began researching my idea of repurposing clothes online, I was unexpectedly reminded of an important figure in my life: my mom. Of all the people I know, she is the one who has the most ‘sustainable’ approach to clothes. Throughout my life, she has recycled, reused and repurposed almost all her clothes and magically made it into something else.

For example, if a jacket is broken but the zipper is fine, she will simply cut free the zipper and use it on clothes where the zipper is broken. She also likes to collect leftover fabrics and make small accessories like sleeve protectors, hats, coin purses and cup coves, etc. At the very beginning, when she started doing this, she was just trying to save money. Now, it has become a lifestyle. She keeps making all those things by herself and I found she appreciates them more.  

Websites I have consulted

http://trashisfortossers.com/how-to-recycle-old-clothing/

https://www.thebalancesmb.com/how-garment-recycling-works-2877992

https://www.lifehack.org/453113/27-creative-ways-to-reuse-old-clothing

Asset Development:

I originally collected a lot of plastic and resources for my previous idea that, ironically, I now have to find a new purpose for. But for my new project of reusing clothes, I have had my parents send me my old clothes from my hometown in Anhui. When it arrives in Shanghai, I will begin my process of restoring it from an article of clothing with a purpose to individual pieces of fabrics useful for any textile purpose.

Response to Gullingsrud, Annie and Lewis Perkins-Xiaoyan Kong

Reading this chapter written by Gullingsrud, Annie and Lewis Perkins is very encouraging. It not only talks about almost all the ways one can think about to design for the circular economy in such a detail way, but also shows us examples of the ideas that are in real action. Here, they are not doing it for the goal of producing zero waste, it is unrealistic. They are searching a way that they can do ”more good” instead of “less bad”.

There is a new way of thinking and designing – it is possible to “design good products for the world and they are positive, beautiful-inside and outside” (296). One thing mentions in the chapter that especially interests me is the ”Everything equals Food”. They use the cherry blossom example McDonough and Braungart provides to explain how it can apply to the fashion industry.  I think the idea that the designer not design just for single use but for “a legacy of products with a storyline that has no end” (300).

This means the clothing is actually designed with a purpose of being safe for humans and the environment. This is a very good vision for the future clothing industry. It does sound simple, but doesn’t mean it is easy to achieve. It takes everyone to realize we are not only individuals living on this planet but also a connected community.

Photo-Essay Zine & Video – Xiaoyan Kong and Mehr

Team: Xiaoyan Kong and Mehr Un Nisa Javed 

Here is a PDF File of the Photo-Essay Zine and a video for the project: 

(The updated video is also in this file)

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_eSTO5tXMQquNxWhECMQH8wj37kvOGUk?usp=sharing

I  grew up in a market in puxi that’s similar to the first one. So It’s a not special place for me to visit. However, after these many years, standing from a different perspective, trying to be an outsider to observe their life feels quite special.  I am especially surprised by the booming ecommerce’s impact on these offline physical shops. And how does that influence the customer service. Continue reading “Photo-Essay Zine & Video – Xiaoyan Kong and Mehr”

Response to Eileen Fisher – Xiaoyan Kong

It is very inspiring to read Eileen Fisher’s story. Indeed, many fashion brands don’t really know what happened behind their raw materials. And they probably don’t care about that either. I read a new report on the Australian fashion industry, it says that 75% of brand companies don’t understand the manufacturing process and story of the fibers and materials they use. What’s more, 91% of the brands don’t know where their cotton is coming from. What Fisher is doing teaches other companies how to make a sustainable business while they can also earn money.

It is not the first time I heard about companies like Eileen Fisher who does business for profit but at the same time, taking care of the environment. There is an organization called B corporation. They assess companies’ entire operation and measures the good impact of the company in every aspects. For instance, workers working environment, product sources and service provided. Those companies who meet their social sustainability and environmental performance standards will get the certificate. Eileen Fisher is one of them.

Their existence is not only a proof of how one for-profit company can take social responsibility, making sustainable business, but also a huge inspiration for other companies, awake them to re-think how to manage their business. In terms of fashion industry – how to make their fashion products both beautiful from inside to outside.