Week 2: Portfolio About Page – Samanta Shi

Here is the link to my index.html page: http://imanas.shanghai.nyu.edu/~sls741/portfolio, and here is a direct link to the about.html page http://imanas.shanghai.nyu.edu/~sls741/portfolio/about.html (which can also be accessed through the index.html page).

As someone who is very familiar with CSS, I struggled to create something without styling it. However, sometimes it is useful to think about the structure in more depth before styling it, so I appreciated that this exercise forced me into practicing a different approach.

Week 2: Response to Berners-Lee and Burrington – Samanta Shi

In Long Live the Web, Berners-Lee discusses the development of the Web, how humans interact with it, and what kind of rights we have (and should have) related to it.  Berners-Lee argues that the Web is “more critical to free speech than any other medium” (pg. 82), which I agree with. The Web is incredibly important to free speech because of its widespread – and at times accessible – nature. In terms of accessibility, I believe that designers and developers should do more to think about how they can make their sites even more accessible. (Here is a handy Medium blogpost by Pablo Stanley including some accessibility design tips.)

I found it interesting that Berners-Lee argues for decentralization, which makes a lot of sense (and which is why blockchain technology is so intriguing). However, he also argues for a single, universal information space, which again makes sense, but in conjunction with decentralization, sounds counterintuitive. How might we manage the single, universal information space effectively? Who manages it? How do we manage them?

There are obvious challenges in maintaining this one-stop shop. We have to worry about monopolies, privacy invasion, data leaks, etc. However, I believe that users of the internet should hold themselves responsible for educating themselves in terms of how companies might take advantage of users’ ignorance in order to make money because — let’s face it — businesses are always going to look for ways to monetize.  For example, businesses will take advantage of a user’s browsing history in order to launch targeted advertising. During my research at Intent, I interviewed users about their perception of online advertising and found some interesting results.  Some users understood how cookies work, and did not mind targeted advertising, and sometimes even found it useful. Other users clearly did not understand how the internet works and found retargeting creepy, intrusive, and reminded them of “big brother”.

Berners-Lee also discusses the need for government legislation to protect net neutrality, yet how the Web “thrive[s] on lack of regulation”, but that “some basic values have to be legally preserved” (pg. 84).   I agree with this, but I think it is hard to determine where one draws the line.  I am very intrigued by how policy and law making will attempt to catch up with the lightning-speed development of the Web. Another case study which proves that regulation lags behind is brought up by Burrington in her article “The Strange Geopolitics of the International Cloud“, where she discusses the Microsoft legal battle:

“At the heart of the case is whether the U.S. government has jurisdiction to request data located in a data center in Ireland if that data belongs to an American Microsoft user. The government argues that where Microsoft stores the data is immaterial—they’re an American company and since Microsoft can access data stored anywhere while physically in the U.S., it doesn’t matter where that data’s stored. Microsoft challenged the warrant on the grounds that a search doesn’t happen at the point of accessing the data (in this case, in the U.S.) but where the data is stored. As of September 2015, the challenge to the warrant was still in dispute.”

This case proves that the system is not equipped to handle the battles of the Web. Another recent example of this is the implementation of GDPR (The EU General Data Protection Regulation), which determines how companies may collect data, what they can do with it, among other requirements (companies now have to be more upfront about how they use user data and give users easy access to opting out and deleting their user profiles). This affected not only EU based companies, but also US based companies that function in or are embedded on sites that are hosted in the EU (I am all too familiar with this because we had an entire team dedicated to achieving GDPR compliance at my company and everyone had to read up on it).  When the time comes, it will be interesting to see how the US government tackles an initiative similar to GDPR…

Week 2: Response to Woodward – Samanta Shi

Woodward discusses how ethnographic research can be used to better understand consumer behavior: how they interact with what’s in their wardrobe (combining pieces) and the reasons behind their actions (why might they choose to buy a piece, if not just following trends?). Ethnography entails embedding oneself into the culture and society of those one is observing over an extended period of time, including contextual research (where one walks around the area, explores the shops, local commute, etc.), as well as in-house interviews. (While I am on the topic, I highly recommend reading The Field Study Handbook by Jan Chipchase). This methodology allows the researcher to closely observe the participants, empathize, and gain an in-depth understanding of their surroundings, which inevitably influence individual’s beliefs, actions, and motivations. 

As a UX researcher, I really appreciate how Woodward uses ethnographic research to produce insights into fashion consumer behavior that I believe would have otherwise gone unnoticed.  Consumer actions need to be contextualized in order to understand the motivations behind their choices, and in understanding the context, we can discover practices of sustainability in the post-sale cycle.  For example, when a consumer decides to mix and match old with new pieces of clothing, they are repurposing pieces they have already bought into a new outfit.  Or, when a consumer decides to wash jeans less frequently and keep them for extended periods of time (without replacing them), they are also acting sustainably, regardless of the intention.  

Woodward summarizes this insight nicely (pg. 134) :

“One of the core problems that is assumed to exist in relationship to fashion and sustainability is that the two cannot co-exist when fashion is defined through novelty. However, when we consider the ways in which people recombine things that they already own, it is apparent that novelty and innovation are not just the sole preserve of the manufacture of new clothing that is then discarded if it no longer of the moment. Fashion is not therefore in contradiction to the long term relationships that people have to clothing.”

Woodward is challenging our definition of fashion and the perception that consumers cannot both be sustainable and fashionable. The sustainability conversation is not limited to design and production; consumers can find ways to make sustainable choices with what is already in their wardrobe.  And in my case, Woodward makes me feel pretty good about keeping my jeans with holes in them and that 15-year-old jacket with obvious wear and tear marks.

Week 1: Response to “The Machine Stops” – Samanta Shi

I am impressed by Forster’s imagination of future technology, as he lived during a time when machine learning and AI, let alone the internet, had not been born.  As I was reading “The Machine Stops”, I could not help but think about the various TV shows that address similar dystopian concerns but through different means, such as The 100 or Altered Carbon.  When it comes to dystopian futures, authors and creatives across the board seem to enjoy the exploration of the following themes:

  • human dependence on machinery,
  • lack of autonomy and independence,
  • the displacement of humans and their homes (underground vs. in space),
  • lack of physical contact, emotional dissonance and even incapability,
  • lack of empathy, imagination, originality, and
  • the significance of a higher power / being / source of guidance to human harmony and function

All of which were present in Forster’s piece.  I was particularly struck by this dialogue:

“You are beginning to worship the Machine,” he said coldly. “You think it irreligious of me to have found out a way of my own. It was just what the Committee thought, when they threatened me with Homelessness.” At this she grew angry. “I worship nothing!” she cried. “I am most advanced. I don’t think you irreligious, for there is no such thing as religion left. All the fear and the superstition that existed once have been destroyed by the Machine. (Pg. 11)

Forster questions the meaning of religion and shows a different way in which it can manifest itself. What will humans turn to when “there is no such thing as religion left”? Will they find another form of religion?  Where or who will they seek guidance and meaning from?   Later on in the text, Forster reminds the reader that [hu]man is responsible for the machine:

‘The Machine is the friend of ideas and the enemy of superstition: the Machine is omnipotent, eternal; blessed is the Machine.’ And before long this allocution was printed on the first page of the Book, and in subsequent editions the ritual swelled into a complicated system of praise and prayer. The word ‘religion’ was sedulously avoided, and in theory the Machine was still the creation and the implement of man. (Pg. 19)

I believe that Forster was commenting on this idea that when humans “play God” by creating something that is perhaps beyond them (“The Machine”), then they must not forget to consider the potential consequences.  The dystopian nature of the story almost suggests that humans should perhaps avoid facilitating the progression of technology to its fullest potential because it will indeed get out of hand.   Unsurprisingly, when the machine stops, chaos ensues and the fate of the characters is sealed.  At the very end, when Kuno says that “Humanity has learned its lesson”, we experience a slight moment of hope only to be followed by the conclusion that humans do not but taint:

For a moment they saw the nations of the dead, and, before they joined them, scraps of the untainted sky.

As we develop ever more sophisticated technology, we need not forget the importance of not only understanding the consequences of the invention or innovation we put forward, but also proposing a plan for how we might deal with that new reality. Regardless of how prepared we might be, I am convinced that we have an unavoidable blindspot. How might we mitigate the implications of that blindspot? Now, that is the question.

Week 1: Response to Fletcher & Edelkoort – Samanta Shi

Response to “Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change” by Kate Fletcher

Fletcher brings up a fundamental issue with the economics of mass production that I unequivocally agree with: the greed for business growth impacts our treatment of the environment, workers, and quality.  In order to affect change, both consumers and producers have a responsibility to question the current status quo and adjust their behavior, goals, and mindsets. To embrace sustainability, fashion businesses should look to the farmers’ markets and artisanal ice cream shops of the world for how to embrace slowness, localness, quality, and even diversity.  Farmers markets sell different goods depending on the season, and almost always run out of the “good stuff” in the first hour — the type of goods may very well also vary from week to week. And, we know that consumers do not mind paying the premium for the organic, local quality. By reconsidering mass production and choosing slow fashion, fashion businesses can change the wasteful cycle that they are currently stuck in.

Additionally, fashion companies should utilize technology to more accurately predict demand to avoid unnecessary excess in production. Perhaps they could even re-think the entire shopping experience. What if – instead of instantly buying a garment that almost fits – a consumer walks into the store, browses the garments, then gets their measurements taken, and finally requests a custom-made piece that is produced locally and delivered within the month. This, of course, requires consumers to truly embrace slow fashion and change their expectation of taking the piece home right away, but if we can collectively change the nature of demand, then businesses will have to follow suit.

Response to  â€śAnti-Fashion: A Manifesto for the Next Decade” by Li Edelkoort

Edelkoort discusses various areas of the fashion industry that we need to re-think, from advertising, retailing, branding, to the interactivity of the shopping experience and claims that “we need to be more interactive in the way we display things” [Edelkoort], which I fully agree with.  The biggest challenge with changing the display boils down to how humans interact with brands offline. Where do they go? How do they expect to interact with a piece of clothing before and after they buy it? If we are to change the display and shopping experience, then we will have to change the mentality of instant gratification and the cost expectations that the consumer has.  Perhaps the piece is not cheaper than a sandwich, or perhaps you buy the piece today and receive it in 3-4 weeks.  Brands like Zara and H&M will eventually be challenged by smaller, local boutiques who can offer more unique and sustainable options. However, in order to compete with the larger brands, industry leaders will have to agree on a regulated price point, as Edelkoort points out.

Edelkoort really struck me when she said “sometimes when you buy a t-shirt you kill somebody … it’s better to buy fur”, which emphasizes the problematic state of current manufacturing. This also reminded me of a story my mother (who used to trade textiles based out of Hong Kong) once told me about factories and coloring: “one time, a factory got a turquoise blue wrong by the slightest shade, and they had to reproduce 1000s of t-shirts”. On top of that, the color of the shirts that were wasted, was particularly harmful to the environment.  So, by moving away from mass production, into smaller, local businesses, perhaps we can avoid these logistical nightmares and make better quality pieces that not only look good but also feel good physically and mentally.

I also particularly enjoyed Edelkoort’s comment on the new man and how fashion needs to give more attention to creating pieces that embrace the more sensitive, elegant, and less macho man.  In many ways, the fashion industry has lagged behind, with fin-tech, health-tech, and even ed-tech gaining traction to improve and innovate, where is the fashion-tech?