By Olympia Nelson
As a viola performance major, the Estates Theatre immediately struck a chord with me on our orientation walking tour. I stood in wonder, staring at the pale green and white building. The gold capitals on the high set columns and the clean white stone stood out against the soft pink-white buildings to either side.
Situated on Železná street, the Estates Theatre is a gem to visit in Old Town Prague. The oldest theatre in the city, it has a history as rich as its architectural beauty.
The theatre was built in 1783 by Anton Haffenecker and designed in the classic style, which is modeled after ancient Greek and Roman architecture. At first, the theatre was named the Rieneck Theatre because of its sponsorship by aristocrat Frantisek Antonin Count Nostitz Rieneck. But eventually, the Nostitz family sold the theatre to the Bohemian Estates in 1798. Even so, there is one balcony of the theatre still dedicated to the Nostitz family, and it can’t be used by anyone else. The inscription on the top front reads “Patriae et Musis” which translates to, “To the Native Land and the Muses.” The site was chosen for its proximity to Charles University, because the University and theatre were thought of as a joint institute.
Along with its architectural history comes a brilliant musical history. Amadeus Mozart wrote his famous opera Don Giovanni for the Estates stage and conducted it himself during the premier performance in 1787. Mozart began writing the opera on his way to Prague and didn’t finish until a few hours before the premier, but it nevertheless received a 30 minute standing ovation. A year before this he conducted The Marriage of Figaro at the Estates theatre after it hadn’t done well during the world premier in Vienna. At its Prague performance however, it became the famous opera it is today.
If you’ve seen the film Amadeus directed by Milos Forman, then you’ve seen the Estates Theatre! The film was set where Mozart spent so much time, and it depicts Mozart’s personality and humor accurately, according to the letters and writings we have of his.
The Theatre is still, of course, operating as a world renowned performance space, and regularly hosts operas, musical performances and dramas. In 1920 it became part of the Prague National Theatre, along with the State Opera, and as such it has a regular season program of events.
I feel so lucky to be able to walk the same streets as one of the great musical geniuses! Being here for an entire semester is going to be such a rich experience, and for any young musician it is a must to visit the places where musical history started.