“The Ethics of Thrifting” (2022-2023)

When my professor first discussed this essay, it seemed quite daunting. The idea of tackling a controversy and reframing it in a new context was a big ask. To simplify the immensity of the prompt, we first were asked to create a list of topics that interested us: Dominic Fike, the Yankees, bubble tea, shopping, the New York Times. Then, we were told to use our wholly random lists to generate a well-covered and contemporary debate: Spotify vs. Apple Music, cultural appropriation vs. cultural appreciation, etc. Through a process of elimination, I found my controversy: thrifting.

Once I decided to explore the controversy surrounding thrifting, my next step was research, research, research. I spent hours reading through articles and scholarly journals, learning the ins and outs of various arguments. I learned that buying second-hand is a great way to reduce carbon emissions, but also that excessive thrifting for superfluous reasons leads to gentrification and resource depletion for lower class communities. The framing of my analysis and argument came easily; this part all but wrote itself, and it certainly helped that I had a vested interest in my topic. My re-framing, however, took time and many, many drafts.

Unlike some of my peers, I picked a topic without knowing how I was going to reframe it. I wracked my brain to conceptualize how to explore this often-discussed controversy in a new, original way. I considered exploring social media vanity, toyed with the problem of gentrification, and landed on virtue signaling in the end. My analysis suggests the narcissistic culture of thrifting is a result of the obsession with appearances and status that is amplified by social media and disguised as a re-emergent trend. This argument came to me without meticulous planning and preconceived notions. Instead, I let what I learned through my research build my reframing in the same way I let my newfound knowledge reshape my opinions on thrifting. Through the help of my professor and peers, not to mention the sources I found on Jstor, I was able to reframe the controversy in a way that, to me, feels authentic and new.

Lea Filidore, ‘25, is a sophomore majoring in media, culture, and communication at Steinhardt. Born and raised in Downingtown, Pennsylvania, a small town outside of Philadelphia, Lea is interested in writing and the intersections of media and culture, hoping to explore how media may be used to close equity gaps and facilitate healthy cultural exchanges. In her essay, Lea tackles the media’s involvement in sustainability trends and the impact of thrifting on lower class communities. She has worked as a contributing writer for the arts desk at Washington Square News and enjoys playing volleyball in Central Park in her free time.