Katherine Hensley
Fellowship Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina and León, Nicaragua
The Working World
el Centro Cultural de la Memoria Haroldo Conti
Although Buenos Aires often appears to be like any modern European city, it still has atrocities in its recent past.
I recently visited el Centro Cultural de la Memoria Haroldo Conti, which is just one of the many converted buildings on the former site of la Escuela de Mecánica de la Armada (ESMA).
From 1976 to 1983, ESMA functioned as el Centro Clandestino de Detención, Tortura y Exterminio. During this time, an estimated 5000 people were detained at ESMA, only about 200 of whom are alive today. Detainees were beaten, tortured and sometimes executed, in the name of eradicating Communist sympathizers. Those detained by the civil-military dictatorship were mainly young activists.
ESMA is not the only site where crimes were committed during Argentina’s “Dirty War”. Tens of thousands of people were killed or “disappeared” by the military, death squads, and detention centers.
Today these large-scale human rights abuses are remembered with the “Nunca Mas” movement, which translates to “Never Again”. These words can be found graffitied on walls across the city.
Violent Demonstration in Buenos Aires during the Civil-Military Dictatorship of 1976-1983
(Image on display in el Centro Cultural de la Memoria Haroldo Conti in Buenos Aires)