Final Project: Abstract Paint Roller

For the Subtraction Final, I made an abstract paint roller sculpture using the lathe & 4-axis mill. 

First I started by shaping a 2″ round stock on the lathe. Then I sanded down a wooden circle & glued the two pieces together.

Then, using a piece of leftover wood form the 4-axis mill skill builder, I drilled a 1/2″ hole using the drill press. 

Then I constructed the rest using some 1/2″ & 1/4″ wooden dowels.

Here is it in action!

Subtraction Week 10: 4 Axis Mill

Here is what I made with the 4-axis mill: 

I started with a basic 3D model on Tinkercad that I imported the Roland CAM software.   

Then I placed a 2″ stock dowel into the machine. 

And Zero’d the machine on the X-Z axis. 

Here’s the first roughing pass!

And the final result after the finishing pass!

 

Subtraction Week 9: Lathe a Mallet

For this week’s HW assignment, I made a hyperbolic hammer out of cork.

I was inspired by the shape of a hyperboloid, as well as the word hyperbole. A mallet or gavel usually represents something serious & is made out of heavy materials such as wood & stone. However, hyperbole is some embellishment not to be taken too seriously, so I decided to use a softer less serious material – cork.  

First, I started with some cork yoga blocks from Amazon.

Then, I lathed the shape. Since the chuck dug into the ends, I had to use chop off the damaged ends using a miter saw. Then, I used a 3/4″ spade bit on the drill press to make a circular hole for the handle. 

After this, I quartered a yoga block using the bandsaw & got back to turning the handle.

I wanted the handle to be thicker than 3/4″ so I made a section slightly smaller to fit into the hammer head & cut it to size. 

Put both pieces together to make the final product – hyperbolic hammer.

Subtraction Week 8: Lathe Skill Builder

For this week’s assignment, I made a wooden handle.

I started with a 2″ diameter wooden pine dowel from Home Depot that I cut into 12″ segments with a miter saw. 

I started with the goal of trying to make the following shape. A-II--1-g

I started with marking some outline dimensional measurements. 

Then, I attached it to the lathe using a 4-jaw chuck & did a test run: 

Unfortunately, trying to follow the measurements was more difficult than anticipated. Ended up taking off too much material & got the following shape. 

Chopped off the top & sanded the top roughly with belt sander to get the final smoother surface.

Subtraction Week 6 & 7: CNC Midterm

For the midterm, I made mid-century modern styled table using the CNC router. 

This design was inspired by the work of Adrian Pearsall in the 1950s. Here is his boomerang table:

Here is another of his coffee table designs:

First, I started by drawing the dimensions of the legs. A standard coffee table is between 16-18 inches. 

Then, to add stability, I designed a rosette with mortises that the legs could slot into.

Finally, I made sure all of the proportions were correct to line up with the glass table top (found on the street). 

The wood was purchased from Lowe’s. It is a solid wood furniture grade pine panel. 

I prepped the design in mastercam, & set up the CNC to go. 

Unfortunately, during this process, I made 4 big mistakes.

  • Not Zeroing the work correctly in mastercam software.
  • Zeroing the CNC too far up.
  • Accidentally hitting the stop button on the CNC.
  • CNC caught into the cutout pieces & stopped. Should’ve fastened down. 

This is why there are extra notches on top.This also led to the mortise tabs on the legs & the edges of the legs having a much larger tolerance than designed. Every time i restarted the job, the CNC bit would drift slightly to the right & upwards.

Alsoe to the snow day, I was unable to cut the rosette keystone. Determined to make due, I took the legs home to work on them.

I decided to cut off the bottom tabs with a hacksaw, then sanded to disguise the original cutoff. To further add to the design, I routed the outer and inner edges with a round-over bit. 

Then, I wood glued all the adjacent sides together & fastened with screws. To disguise the screws, I pasted some wood filler on top.

 

 

 

 

Subtraction Week 5: CNC Joinery

For this week’s assignment, I decided to CNC a mortise & tenon joint. This joint is in preparation for my midterm project. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_and_tenon

 

First I started by drawing the CAD with a tolerance of .02 inches. These pieces should nestle together & also slot together into a rosette.

Setup up the CAM then ran on the CNC. 

I filed the inner corners so that the tenon could fit into the mortise. Unfortunately, since the thickness of the 1″ MDF used was more than the 1″ wood that I based the measurements off of, so the joints did not fit together well.

 

 

Subtraction Week 4: Vectorworks, Master CAM, & CNC Routing SkillBuilder

This week, we learned how to use Vectorworks, & MasterCAM for the big CNC. This is what I made:

Drew a circle &  imported the file into MasterCAM. However, to reduce my wait time, I decided to just cut the small 2″ circle & not the big one. 

Put in the bit & secured the board with some screws! 

After several error messages, I got the CNC going!

Final result (off cut):

Subtraction Week 3: Desktop CNC Project

This week, I made a Qi wireless charger enclosure from Walnut & Mother of Pearl. This enclosure was primarily made using the Othermill CNC.

 

Video of Charger in use:

 

Here are some of the initial design ideas:

Then I drew the charger in vectorworks:

 

And imported it into the Bantam Tools Othermill software & started milling! I had to start with milling it flat because the walnut wood was uneven.

Milled the Circle & Channel. Here is the bottom of the wireless charger.

Then, started on the top! Drew the designs in illustrator.

 

Had to make a jig for the lasercutter to hold it into place.

Laser Etched. Unfortunately, I didn’t tape it securely the first time & so the piece moved. That is why there are some burn marks. 

Sanded off the burn marks & placed the mother of pearl inlay, which was also lasercut.

Glued & placed the components into the wood. Luckily, since I measured many many times, the pieces were press fit. 

Applied Tung Oil, waited 24 hours & then applied a wax buff coat using a 3 stage wax buffer.   

I’m very happy with the final result.

Subtraction Week 2: Othermill Skill Builder

This week, we were given the challenge of learning how to use the Othermill. I started with creating an abstract NYU logo in adobe illustrator.

When I ported the .svg file into Bantam software, it gave me some small errors in red. However, since there weren’t too many, I proceeded with the same file. Somehow, the software knew what section I wanted to cut, & which to engrave; this might be a bug.

Homed the bit, aligned the wood with double-sided tape to the lower left corner & started milling.

With constant vacuuming & an accidental job cancel, a 17-minute job turned into over an hour. Here is the final result.

Unfortunately, the wooden block moved slightly & created an uneven bottom edge. Next time, I will use more tape.

Subtraction Week 1: Router Skill Builder

This week, we were challenged to make a semi-circle using a hand router. Here is my attempt: 

I started with the desired template  & measured the dimensions carefully on a piece on 1/2″ plywood.

Here is the original scrap wood.

Then, I used the drill press with 1/4″ bit on the centerpoint. This will be the hole used for the router jig.  Time for the router! Used the bit that Ben Light let our class borrow.

Determined that the 3rd hole on the router jig would give me a 5″ diameter, & got going!

However, I ran into some jaggedness, especially at the beginning. 

Also, I couldn’t tell if the router went through fully, so I did 5 passes. I think 3 passes too many, because I accidentally marked up the router table. Woops.

After this, I started on the straight cut by measuring the distance between straight edge of router jig & inside of router bit with digital calipers.

 

Clamped down the straight edge the same distance of 2.767″ & changed the router jig.

Lined up the edge of the router to the straight edge, & did a pass. However, I don’t know how this came out like this??

When I measured the distance with the calipers, it was less than the distance that I measured earlier between router bit & edge! Maybe this is because of the kerf made by the bit? Maybe I mismeasured?? Also, the straightedge wasn’t clamped down tight enough & started to move inward when I was making the straight cut (should’ve used the C-clamps).

I will definitely need more practice with this tool.